“In your marriage, who is the boss?” our driver, Arman, asked in a playfully provocative tone, like he was setting up the punchline of a joke.
My partner and I looked at each other, laughed, and shrugged. Arman belonged to the Minangkabau, the society recognized among anthropologists as the world’s largest and most stable surviving matriarchy (though some prefer to call it a gylany, matrix, matrifocal or matricentric society, or something else to avoid conjuring images of mythical Amazons). Knowing this, I presumed his question was part of a routine entertainment for tourists.
“For us it is the woman who is boss,” he continued, predictably. “The woman has all the privileges; she owns everything. The men, we own nothing.” (
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A Bukittinggi evening
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Fast food dinner stalls
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Mt. Merapi
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Remains of a Dutch fort ( info)
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Bukittingi rooftops
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Jl Ahmad Yani north
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Jam Gadang (Clock tower)
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Statue of Imam Bonjol
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Jl Ahmad Yani south
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Dadia Campua, local dish (fruit, yoghurt, oats, jaggery)
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Minankabau wedding set and attire ( more)
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Pasar Atas, a Vegetable and Meat Market in Bukittinggi
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Mounds of dried fish ( 1, 2)
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Dozens of species
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Dozens of stalls
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Freshly killed & live fish
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Just point and buy ( more)
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Assorted seafood
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Hello visitor
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Women run lots of stalls
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Brisk business
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Quartered sting ray
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Fish eyes staring at ya!
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Red meat section
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From a kill this morning
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A choice cut?
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Assorted innards
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Cow boots against the wall
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Severed leg
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More cow boots in the sun
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Assorted innards
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Fowl for sale
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Pick the fattest bird
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Chicken's endgame
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Slaughter and quarter
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Ducks in a sack
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Skinning fresh killed chicken
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Produce seller
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Heaps o' snacks
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Heaps o' chillies
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Chilli paste
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Grinding chillies
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A traditional Minangkabau Dance Performance
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12 lively dances performed to energetic music
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At Medan Nan Balinduang, a cultural center in town
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Peragaan Penganten, (with a wedding couple)
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The bride
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Tari Pasambahan
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Tari Pasambahan
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Tari Bagurau
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Aluang Bunian
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Tari Indang
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Tari Indang
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Tari Piring
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Day Trip 1: East and South of Bukittingi
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House on a plantation
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Chillies
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Cheekoo fruit
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Cacao pods (tree)
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Drying cacao beans
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Holy cacao!
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Lemon grass
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Eggplant
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Basil (Tulsi)
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Our guide (middle) with one plantation's owners
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Plantation owner
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Yellow hibiscus
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Poinsettia
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Coffee mill, water powered
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Grinding coffee beans
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Fish farms in the village
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Woman working
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A Minangkabau home
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Padang-style lunch for two!
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A family at lunch
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Giggly girls
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Ceremonial drum
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King's palace (being restored after 2007 lightening fire)
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Rau-Rau Village
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Minangkabau design
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Papaya
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Bollywood fans here!
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Room adjacent to kitchen ( more)
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Another house
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Another interior
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Kitchen fire on sheet of iron
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Modern Minangkabau house
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Average village house
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The inheritance of women
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Women in the village ( more)
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Pausing for a smile
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Two boys
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Schoolgirl
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Balimbing village house
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Another house
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Village scene
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Rice paddies near Balimbing
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Rooster
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Kids having a *great* time
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Soursop fruit
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A small river
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Water intensive crop
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Terrace farming
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Handicrafts souviner shop in Pandai Sikek village
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India-inspired dresses & designs
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Young weaver
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Wood carving
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A typical big mosque
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Day Trip 2: West of Bukittingi |
Koto Gadang village
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Koto Gadang street
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Close-up of wood carving
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Filigree silverwork
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Landscape w/ village ( more)
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Roasting peanuts
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Caldera formed 52K years ago
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Minangkabau house overlooking lake ( 1, 2)
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Mid-afternoon light
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Rice fields by the lake
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Rice and coconuts
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In a volcano's caldera
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Rice - almost ready
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Long-tailed monkey
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Weaver-bird nest
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Making (unrefined) sugar from sugarcane
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Fresh cut sugarcane
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Big juicer
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Boiling in large vats
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Sugarcane husk is fuel
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Thickening juice
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Off the fire
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Poured into cups
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www.shunya.net/Pictures/Indonesia/Bukittinggi/Bukittinggi.htm |
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